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on Thursday, July 17th, 2008 at 3:56 pm and is filed under Tips and Tricks, Video.
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Excellent! I have used bounce cards for years, but never to this level.
You gave me a great idea. We live on 80 acres and have a good variety of nocturnal animals. I have a FinePix S3Pro (14.?mgpxl) and Nikon lenses. With that, I use Sunpak’s 622 Pro which you know is a mega-power, handle-mount / off-camera flash (if I want it off). Rolling the paper into a tube like a snoot in a studio will be one of my next night shot techniques.
I realize snoots are black and absorb light to prevent any from going astray as it exits the tube. Should I do the same with my long range outdoor efforts? How about a white tube surrounded with a black tube that is maybe two inches longer than the internal white one? That would prevent light loss through white paper, absorption in black paper as well as straying light on exiting the tube. I will be back to check for comment or you may email me at certo@fotki.com.
About 15 years ago, I was with a friend who wanted me to help him shoot night shots, in particular, Christmas scenes. We came upon a nice house which was not gaudy. However, the door was covered in a flashy foil and well lit. The lighting contrast between the door and the bay window with the tree and all other lights and lit areas was non-resolvable with just a camera… so I thought. I did not have a darkroom any more and the one I previously had was B&W. My friend, relatively new to photography, asked the most brilliant question: “Can’t you dodge and burn or whatever you call it like you do in the darkroom? My immediate response, of course was, No. But within seconds, I asked, Why not? This is a bulb shot anyway. Use a large aperture and during exposure, dodge thte door area. With the camera on a tripod, the release cable locked, I held my fingers apart and my hand in a vertical position, parallel with the lens elements. During the shot, I waved my hand up and down with the fingers dodging the door and the result was beginner’s luck: perfection! Since that time, I have used the same technique and I’ve simply blinded part of the lens for a fraction of the exposure time, being careful not to leave a tell-tale line between dodged and non-dodged areas.
Maybe you can work this into an instructional video.
Sorry for the late reply. For outdoor long range shooting, I use Better Beamer. It will work in the dark, but you have to fix the red eyes later. Thanks for the tip. BTW, I am not the one in the video.
August 28th, 2008 at 2:34 am
Great tutorial!
Thank You!
November 11th, 2008 at 3:58 pm
Excellent! I have used bounce cards for years, but never to this level.
You gave me a great idea. We live on 80 acres and have a good variety of nocturnal animals. I have a FinePix S3Pro (14.?mgpxl) and Nikon lenses. With that, I use Sunpak’s 622 Pro which you know is a mega-power, handle-mount / off-camera flash (if I want it off). Rolling the paper into a tube like a snoot in a studio will be one of my next night shot techniques.
I realize snoots are black and absorb light to prevent any from going astray as it exits the tube. Should I do the same with my long range outdoor efforts? How about a white tube surrounded with a black tube that is maybe two inches longer than the internal white one? That would prevent light loss through white paper, absorption in black paper as well as straying light on exiting the tube. I will be back to check for comment or you may email me at certo@fotki.com.
November 11th, 2008 at 4:09 pm
HERE IS A TIP FOR YOU AND YOUR READERS
About 15 years ago, I was with a friend who wanted me to help him shoot night shots, in particular, Christmas scenes. We came upon a nice house which was not gaudy. However, the door was covered in a flashy foil and well lit. The lighting contrast between the door and the bay window with the tree and all other lights and lit areas was non-resolvable with just a camera… so I thought. I did not have a darkroom any more and the one I previously had was B&W. My friend, relatively new to photography, asked the most brilliant question: “Can’t you dodge and burn or whatever you call it like you do in the darkroom? My immediate response, of course was, No. But within seconds, I asked, Why not? This is a bulb shot anyway. Use a large aperture and during exposure, dodge thte door area. With the camera on a tripod, the release cable locked, I held my fingers apart and my hand in a vertical position, parallel with the lens elements. During the shot, I waved my hand up and down with the fingers dodging the door and the result was beginner’s luck: perfection! Since that time, I have used the same technique and I’ve simply blinded part of the lens for a fraction of the exposure time, being careful not to leave a tell-tale line between dodged and non-dodged areas.
Maybe you can work this into an instructional video.
December 2nd, 2008 at 4:33 pm
Hi Cetro,
Sorry for the late reply. For outdoor long range shooting, I use Better Beamer. It will work in the dark, but you have to fix the red eyes later. Thanks for the tip. BTW, I am not the one in the video.